In lesson 2 we explored the pick-up-and-lay-down cast, which con- sists of only two strokes: a single back cast followed by a single for- ward cast. When you’re actually fishing, however, you won’t always pick the fly off the water and put it back down immediately—some- times you’ll keep it airborne for several strokes before delivering it. This is called false casting. In fly-fishing false casting has several functions, the most com- mon of which is to shake the water off a dry fly so that it will float again. You can also use false casting to change direction, gradually ro- tating your upper body toward your target as you hold the line aloft for several strokes. On moving water, this is usually to deliver a fly up- stream of where the current carried your fly. When you learn to use your line hand (see pages 70–74), you can use false casting to judge distance. That is, you’ll watch where your leader and fly unroll in relation to your target. You’ll then lengthen, or shorten, the fly line as needed so that the leader and fly unroll di- rectly above your target. You’ll learn to false cast first using only your rod hand (as you did for both previous lessons), trapping the fly line under your middle fin- ger to control it. Begin with 12 feet of fly line outside the rod tip. The fly line should be lying straight out in front of you on the water with all the slack removed, and your rod tip should be touching the water. Lift the line from the water in a loading move, exactly as if you were making a pick-up-and-lay-down cast (photo 1, next page). After you’ve completed the back cast and the line has unrolled behind you almost completely, begin your forward stroke (photo 2). After you stop the rod on the forward stroke and the rod unloads, the loop will begin to unroll toward the target (photo 3); just before the line has unrolled completely (the end of the fly line will be shaped like a candy cane), begin another back-cast stroke (photo 4).
1. To execute a false-casting se- quence, lift the line from the water as if you were beginning a pick-up- and-lay-down cast. 2. When your back cast has unrolled almost com- pletely, begin your forward stroke. 3 and 4. Just before the forward cast has straightened (the end of the fly line will be shaped like a candy cane), begin another back-cast stroke. False Casting 1
False Casting 2 False Casting 3
False Casting 4
Unlike the pick-up-and-lay-down cast, in which you begin the for- ward stroke just as the back cast has straightened behind you, when false casting it’s important to begin each stroke just before the previ- ous cast has unrolled completely. This allows you to bring the fly line, leader, and fly through a smooth change of direction. If you wait un- til the fly line has straightened completely before beginning each stroke, your false-casting sequence will have a clunky feel and appear- ance. Also, as we learned in lesson 2, as soon as the cast unrolls com- pletely, the fly line will begin to fall. If, during your false-casting se- quence, you allow the fly line to begin to fall, there’s a good chance your fly will hit the ground or tick the water (particularly if you are false casting a longer length of line). As we also learned in lesson 2, you don’t want to begin the cast- ing stroke too soon. If you begin the stroke before enough fly line has had a chance to unroll, you won’t be able to load the rod, and the cast will collapse (see photos 6 and 7, next page). When false casting from a closed stance, you won’t be able to watch your back cast unroll; however, you will be able to watch your forward cast. The amount of time it takes for your forward cast to unroll will give you a good sense of how long it should take for your back cast to unroll, too, as well as a good sense of the cadence of the false-casting sequence. False casting horizontally above the lawn will give you an even better sense of the timing required. Despite whatever opportunity you may have to watch part, or all, of your cast, perfect timing cannot be accomplished either visually or mentally. In fly casting, perfect timing depends on feeling. As your casting stroke develops, you’ll be able to feel the weight of the fly line against the rod tip; this weight will increase gradually as the cast un- rolls. You’ll feel this through the fingers of your rod hand, which is your only connection to the fly rod. This feeling will always be fairlyAs soon as the cast unrolls com- pletely, the fly line will begin to fall. subtle, but it will become more noticeable as your skills progress. If you allow it to fall, there’s a good Developing this feeling will give you a sense of being constantlychance your fly will hit the ground connected with the weight of the fly line throughout each cast. Thisor tick the water. False Casting 5
False Casting 6
False Casting 7 If you begin the casting stroke beforephenomenon adds a tactile aspect to your awareness of the unrolling the majority of the fly line has un- rolled, you won’t be able to load the rod, and the sequence will collapse.
cast. With practice, you’ll be able to distinguish, and act upon, the difference between a cast that’s almost unrolled completely and one that’s fully extended—a difference in timing that amounts to a fraction of a second. For accuracy you’ll unroll your fly close to the water, just above
stroke—but again, always along a straight-line path. You can hold
For accuracy you’ll unroll your flyyour target. Your rod hand will move upward and backward on the close to the water, just above yourback-cast stroke and forward and downward on the forward-cast target. Your rod hand will move up- ward and backward on the back-cast stroke and forward and downwardthe fly line aloft for as many strokes as you wish. When it looks as on the forward-cast stroke.if your fly line is unrolling directly above your target, present the False Casting 8
False Casting 9 fly by simply following through to the water with your rod tip.When false casting to change direc- tion, your cast may unroll farther When false casting to change direction, it’s OK if your cast unrolls above the water.
farther above the water. Your rod hand will still move in a straight line—but this time the path is less steep. However, your delivery will be most accurate if the leader unrolls just above the target. False casting with only 12 feet of fly line outside the rod tip re- quires very little power. Whatever length of line you’re casting, use only enough force to get the line and leader to turn over crisply. Use too much power and you’ll shock the cast. When you feel comfortable false casting with 12 feet of fly line outside the rod tip, increase the length to 15 feet. With 15 feet of fly line outside the rod tip, you’ll have to use a slightly longer casting stroke to get the fly line to turn over. Your timing will change slightly; you’ll have to wait a bit longer for this line to unroll. When you’re comfortable with 15 feet of line, lengthen it to 20. Again, your timing changes. You have to wait longer still between casts. Your casting stroke lengthens slightly, and perhaps you need to use a bit more force to keep the fly line airborne. However, use only enough force to turn everything over crisply. Always bear inWith practice, you may be able to false cast with 30 or more feet of fly mind that fly casting should be beautiful to watch. line outside the rod tip, which will al- With practice (and after you learn drift and follow-through, whichlow you to present a fly nearly 50 we’ll discuss in lesson 6), you may be able to false cast with 30 or morefeet. False Casting 10
feet of fly line outside the rod tip. Assuming you’re using a 9-foot rod and a 9-foot leader, 30 feet of fly line outside the rod tip will allow you to present a fly nearly 50 feet. With a 50-foot cast, you’ll be prepared to fish for any gamefish species in the world, in freshwater or salt. When first learning to false cast, you may wish to hold the line in the air for ten strokes or more before you present the yarn fly to the target. This is fine, as it will help you to develop the necessary rhythm. When you’re actually fishing, however, there will be no need for such a drawn-out casting sequence. Many beginners, as well as too many experienced fly-fishers, false cast excessively. Under most circumstances, even the most water-logged fly should need no more than three back casts (a total of six strokes) to make it float again. The same number of strokes should allow you to pick your fly out of the water directly downstream and present it directly across. A large part of becoming a good fly caster is becoming an efficient fly caster. When you’re fishing, use only as many false casts as you need. It may sound like a cliché to say that you won’t catch a fish with your fly in the air—but it’s also true.
The Line Hand
Until now you’ve cast with the fly line trapped under the middle finger of your rod hand. This anchors the fly line to the rod and allows you to develop your rod-arm mechanics independent of the line hand. When actually fishing, however, you’ll seldom cast with the line trapped in your rod hand. Therefore, we must now address the functions of the line hand.
One function of the line hand is to strip line from the reel.
You’ll retrieve fly line by hooking the line under the middle finger of your rod hand to control it, and then strip- ping in line from behind the middle finger. The line hand has several functions in fly-fishing and fly casting. Perhaps the most obvious function is to strip line from the reel. You’ll also use your line hand to retrieve line: hooking line under the mid- dle finger of your rod hand to control it, and then stripping in line from behind the middle finger. As far as casting is concerned, the primary function of the line hand is to maintain tension on the fly line throughout the entire casting stroke. If you fail to do this—that is, you introduce slack into the cast—you’ll steal some of the power from the cast, and you’ll likely compromise its accuracy. Although you may never notice the negative effects an inch or two of slack can create in a short cast, you will notice them on a long cast. To make a long cast you must get the full potential out of the rod. A well-trained line hand assures that you cast efficiently. To make a pick-up-and-lay-down cast using your line hand prop- erly, begin with 25 feet of fly line stripped off the reel. Stroke line across the water until all of it is outside the rod tip and lying in a pile on the water (see photo on page 28). This should give you a lit- tle more than 15 feet of line outside the rod tip. Trap the line under the middle finger of your rod hand and roll cast it so that it’s lying straight in front of you. Strip in enough fly line so that you have only 12 feet, plus the leader, outside the rod tip. Keeping the rod tip close to the water with no slack, grasp the fly line between the thumb and index finger of your line hand and re- lease the line from your rod hand. Move your line hand about 2 feet out from the shaft of the rod. You’ve now formed a sort of triangle with the rod shaft, the fly line, and an imaginary line running between your two hands (see photo next page). This triangle should be wide enough that you could, if you wanted to, fit your head through it. To maintain tension on the fly line throughout the casting se- quence, you’ll need to move both hands in unison on both strokes. During the back cast, your line hand will raise the same amount as does the rod hand; on the forward cast, it will move forward in uni-
Grasp the fly line between the thumb and index finger of your line hand and release the line from your rod hand. Move your line hand about 2 feet out from the shaft of the rod. You’ve now formed a sort of triangle with the rod shaft, the fly line, and an imaginary line running between your two hands. During the entire casting sequence, both hands move in unison.
son with the rod hand as well; and while the loop of line is unrolling toward the target, both hands will follow through. In fact, your rod hand and line hand mirror each other so closely during the casting sequence, it’s as if you are holding a rod in each of them. Moving your hands in unison during both strokes as well as during follow-through keeps a constant length of line between the line hand and the first stripping guide, maintaining line tension throughout the entire casting sequence. If you were to keep your line hand stationary during the casting sequence, your rod hand would move toward your line hand on the forward stroke; you would, in effect, feed slack into your forward cast, stealing power from the cast and compromising its accuracy. To maintain line tension you must maintain an equal distance between your rod hand and line hand during the forward casting stroke. During the casting sequence it’s OK if your line hand is slightly lower than your rod hand—you may even be more comfortable this way—as long as both hands move in unison, and an equal distance to each other, during the casting sequence. Learn to use your line hand first using the pick-up-and-lay-down cast. When you get comfortable with this, begin to use it for false casting; for this is how you’ll cast when you’re actually fishing. In lesson 4 we’ll discuss the additional functions the line hand performs in fly casting. I’ve just explained how to move your hands in unison during the casting sequence in order to maintain line tension, and I’m convinced this is the best, fastest way to learn how to do so. However, I must admit that, for the most part, this is not how I do it myself. As you progress as a fly caster, and your awareness of line tension becomes second nature, you probably will be much more comfortable keeping your line hand around waist level. During the back-cast
Holding your line hand at waist level is the best way to learn to use it while roll casting.
If you were to keep your line hand stationary during the casting se- quence, you would feed slack into your forward cast, stealing power from the cast and compromising its accuracy.
stroke, your rod hand actually moves away from your line hand. During the forward stroke, the line hand moves backward and downward slightly to maintain tension. As the forward cast is unrolling, the line hand raises slightly to position itself for the next cast; the fly line is kept taut through the force of the unrolling forward cast (see lesson 5). Holding your line hand at waist level is the best way to learn to use it while roll casting (see photos previous page). To execute such a sequence requires a good peripheral awareness of the interaction between rod and line, which you’ll develop over time with practice.